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Cin-Cin
I love a great cocktail but not the overdone cruise-ship concoctions described online
by their habitués. Daiquiris when the humidity registers the same number as the temperature – I am so in. A proper Sidecar when you turn off the AC – absolutely. A Margarita rimmed with salt (and maybe Tajin) to accompany a fish taco – yes indeed. But all the above examples have to be well made, balanced, not too much sugar or a surfeit of alcohol or you really can’t enjoy your meal. And in fact, when we make these cocktails at home, we have found that carb-heavy snacks are better than a meal. I actually find it hard to have a nice wine with food after a big lip-smacking drink. We are probably a nation of heavy hitters in humor, music and alcohol.
A Different Pairing
That is why I was so intrigued by a dinner orchestrated by Daniel Beloni at Twinside. the bistro
brother of Caminetto D’Oro. With the participation of an unusual distiller based in Bologna, a unique pairing was offered – several courses of mostly raw seafood combined with cocktails based on amari, vermouth, bitters and gin. It was an insightful and delicious introduction to a different way of showcasing spirits and a meal – a far cry from the bottomless spritz and chips routine.
Amari represent a unique Italian approach to spirits – basically a form of brandy that has been infused by a combination of herbs, spices, barks, plus the peels of dried fruits and vegetables – formulations traditionally closely held by the distiller. (We are not talking Jaegermeister here – apparently a standard amaro vehicle for teen inebriation). I have written about my discovery of Amari from an aficionado in the US and really prefer them to cognac or grappa.
Vermouth is generally acknowledged to be yet another Italian invention in the 19th century and many view it as the magic in a Martini, Manhattan, and Negroni. But gin, with its Dutch origins in the 16th century, has become beloved here for cocktails, and there are many gin producers in Italy – over 300 – who add various aromas to their interpretations of this juniper-based liquor.
An Albanian Italian Production
Which brings me to this distinctive dinner. Daniel Benoni, the creator of a very seductive list of cocktails for Caminetto D’Oro, coordinated a tasting menu with Gotha Spiriti Nobili– a most unusual producer of amari, vermouth and, yes, gin! Gotha is the brainchild of Ergin Allko, who at the age of 18 emigrated from Albania to Bologna to study at its university. He worked as a bartender and later as a bar proprietor for 18 years before creating Gotha Spiriti Nobili with his brother and two partners. The goal of this enterprise is to explore and expand an Italian tradition of herbaceous liqueurs, but with an appreciation of the tastes and aromas offered by the other shores of the Adriatic Sea. And, since Italians love their food, a natural exploration would be to blend light cocktails with a succession of courses.
Gotha produces a gin, a few vermouths and amari plus a bitter. All have an unusual combination of natural flavoring agents and the unique distinction of being based on distilled Adriatic sea water.
A Menu In 5 Acts
The opener was smashing – a carpaccio of Ombrina (drum fish) with splashes of celery and
peach coulis, accompanied by a glass of their amaro Settemmezzo mixed with Aqua Brillante – an Italian tonic water which is absolutely refreshing (the company’s formula is clad in secrecy) and I swear it has some more “oomph” to it than other tonic waters. The closest one in the US would be either Fentimans or Fever-Tree Premium Indian Tonic Water. Mix to taste with a couple of ice cubes in a small glass and garnish with a citrus slice.
Settemmezzo itself is Ergin’s homage to Bologna, the name itself is a card game frequently played in its bars or at the university (sort of a form of Blackjack where you play against the dealer) but the game and this amaro suggest conviviality among friends. The botanical backbone of Settemmezzo is the small violet artichoke (Carciofo Violetto di San Lucca) cultivated exclusively in the hills surrounding Bologna. Settemmezzo is rounded out with a bit of Sicilian chinotto, a bitter but spicy orange (think cinnamon and cloves) and rhubarb. And as any Italian will remind you, anything with the artichoke component (cynarin) is excellent for your digestive tract!
This was followed by an excellent tuna tartare garnished with lemon and tiny onions accompanied by
Gotha’s Aperitivo Nichilista, which was my favorite. This cocktail combined their Bitter Allko with pink grapefruit soda – you definitely get the taste of pepper, but it is tempered with different barks and bitter citrus. Again, that distilled sea water gives it more depth of flavor.
A toast with tiny squid and peas was served with an unusual take on the Americano cocktail. I have never noticed anything special about vermouth, but this one got my attention. It was Gotha’s riff on the famous Campari Americano. Their Vermouth Operaio (Workers’ Vermouth, with the joke that they should drink it responsibly during working hours) starts with a wine from the Zibibbo grape – delicious and versatile – used as a table grape, harvested for wine and dried as raisins. This wine is enhanced by wormwood, chinotto orange, plum, and dandelion! Gotha’s Americano combined this vermouth with their Allko Bitter, Angostura and Aqua Brillante. The kicker was the garnish of thin cucumber slices. Outstanding.
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The finale savory was a langoustine crudo with tomato served with Gotha’s twist on a Negroni – Operaio
Vermouth, Allko Bitter, and Menegiks gin. Not being fond of gin, this one really surprised me – I could really taste the juniper, but the mystery notes were the distillate of capers, lime and peppermint oils and sea water. Menegiks is a phonetic spelling of the Albanian word for peppermint.
A serving of fresh orange sorbet along with Gotha’s Marcus Vermouth Imperiale – a fruity vermouth made from Sicilian Frappato grapes and fortified with essences of coffee, cocoa, cinchona, wormwood and bitter orange – an excellent finish to this uniquely Italian pairing of spirits to seafood.
Some of Gotha’s spirits are sold in the US, but you have to search for them online. Or ask your favorite spirits seller. And on your next trip to Italy, leave some room in your suitcase for a few bottles. They are indeed noble.
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After owning one of the best cooking stores in the US for 47 years, Nancy Pollard writes a blog about food in all its aspects – recipes, film, books, travel, superior sources and food related issues.
