Juicy Post: Consider The Prune

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Childhood Prejudice

My youthful introduction to prunes was less than felicitous. Since I had been diagnosed with an illness that precluded any citrus, my morning juice was not sunshiny orange but rather sludgy prune. As a special dessert, instead of forbidden lemon meringue pie, which was one of my mother’s specialties, I got prune whip. Trust me on this — there was no comparison. And, although it is a myth, I was sure there was prune extract in Dr. Pepper when we were adolescents, which cemented my loathing of that beverage. It was not until I first went to France with the Resident Wine Maniac that I had a revelation.  We were in a little country hotel with a restaurant (which we later discovered was a Relais & Chateau member) and after a wonderful dinner, we were served “mignardises” – little sweet treats to have with coffee. One of these was a prune stuffed with a pistachio and almond marzipan. And in that moment of epiphany,  I grew up about prunes. 

Prune History & Sci Fi

Since  the word “prune” in the US is still tainted with all the detriments I detested as a child, the wrinkly little things have have been rechristened “dried plums” by PR geniuses — evoking associations with pleasant company like dried apricots, dried apples, and dried cherries. In France, plums are prunes and prunes (or dried plums) are pruneaux. And the best ones we can get are labeled Agen. These prunes are the highest grade out of 46 of the Ente prune, which has a history going back to the Crusades, according to an article by Florence Fabricant in the New York Times. French soldiers brought a species of plum back from Damascus. They were planted by monks near Toulouse, who discovered how good the  shriveled ones were that fell  and were left on the ground. These Damascus plums were crossed with  a local one, yielding what is now named the Ente plum, and these have been grown exclusively for the production of the famed Pruneaux d‘Agen.  Ente plum trees were replanted in the area of Agen in the 17th century after severe frost decimated crops. These Agen prunes have been shipped world wide for over two centuries. Prunes need a little help from their friends, and Armagnac is a good bestie. Grab a large canning jar, fill it with the prunes of your choice, and top off  with Armagnac. Try to wait a about a month before spooning them over ice cream, or making one of the two dessert recipes below. And if you still turn up your nose at prune juice, look at this encounter between a Klingon and Bartender Whoopi Goldberg: 

Warrior Recipes

Rick Stein and his family run a small chain of top-notch restaurants in the UK. He also is a prolific cookbook writer.  His restaurants are justifiably noted for their seafood. Should you be in a Rick Stein neighborhood, add it to your dining out list. I think you will be pleased with their menu, service and prices. I am still trying to make my Sole Meuniere as good as the one served in his Winchester restaurant. This recipe, however, is a chicken recipe from one of his cookbooks, Rick Stein’s Long Weekends.

It is poached, and then added to a sauce of red onions and prunes, which you will begin constructing as the chicken thighs are simmering in a saffron bath. Criminally easy.  This main course can be a mid-week meal or doubled up to be the main course for a party. It reheats easily and can be served with bread and a salad or with rice. 

Kozani Chicken with Prunes, Saffron & Paprika

2019-12-20 16:22:27

Serves 4

An unusual way of preparing chicken thighs for either a quick mid-week dinner or expanded to a larger party.

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Ingredients

1. 8 chicken thighs (original called for skinless, but I have used both with and without skin)
2. 1 liter (a bit over 1 quart) water
3. large pinch of Spanish Saffron (not powdered)
4. 4 tbs (60ml) olive oil
5. enough thinly sliced red onion to create 1.5-2 cups (450ml) thin slices
6. 1 1/2 tbs (22ml) sweet paprika - not smoked as it will alter the dish dramatically.
7. 16-20 prunes
8. 1 tsp fine sea salt (more may be needed to adjust the final sauce)
9. 6 turns of freshly ground pepper

Instructions

1. Put the chicken thighs in a large saucepan with the water and saffron.
2. Bring to a boil and then turn down the heat so that the chicken pieces can gently poach for 10-15 minutes.
3. Remove the thighs to a plate and reserve the cooking liquid.
4. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan that is large enough to hold all the chicken thighs.
5. Over medium low heat, sweat the onion slices (I cut the onions in half and make thin half moon slices) until they are soft - about 10 minutes.
6. Add the paprika and cook for an additional 2 minutes
7. Add the chicken thighs and about 700ml of the cooking liquid.
8. Arrange the prunes in between the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 20 minutes.
9. If the sauce is too watery, remove chicken, prunes and onions to warm plate and reduce the sauce until you get a syrupy consistency, and add more salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
10. Serve on warm plates with a spoonful of sauce on each chicken thigh.

Notes

1. This recipe makes great leftovers!
2. I prefer small chicken thighs.

By Rick Stein

Adapted from Rick Stein's Long Weekends

Adapted from Rick Stein's Long Weekends

Kitchen Detail https://lacuisineus.com/

I know, I know, he is the head of a fancy, schmancy restaurant empire, but this title has many recipes that are truly  accessible to the home cook. Look at the blueberry sauce, for instance, or his Hanger Steak With Shallots (now my go-to recipe). His technique for the regional dessert called Far Breton is my favorite version.  He has a few extra steps that make subtle differences in this very straightforward  custardy cake, which uses prunes soaked in an Armagnac-based syrup. I use almond powder instead of flour to coat the butter in the pan or gratin.  Having the ingredients at roughly the same temperature does indeed make a much silkier batter. And yes, like popover batter, it is better to let  it rest several hours. I think it is important to either strain the batter before letting it rest overnight, or you could mix it in a food processor. Once you pour the batter in the pan, you add the prunes – and they stay somewhat suspended rather than gathering in a clump at the bottom.  It really is a snap. Not bad for breakfast either. I have made this in a metal cake pan as suggested in the book and also in a ceramic gratin. The metal cake pan gives more of a crust, whereas the Far Breton exterior is softer when baked in a ceramic container.  The cake pan version I unmold but the one in the gratin, I just serve as is.

Far Breton

2019-12-22 00:08:21

A couple of extra steps makes this recipe a superior one for the classic Breton dessert

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Ingredients

1. 2 tbs (30ml) caster sugar
2. 1 cup (237ml) water
3. 6 oz (170gr) pitted prunes
4. 2 tbs (30ml) Armagnac
5. 3 large eggs at room temperature
6. 1/4 cup (60ml) caster sugar
7. pinch fine sea salt
8. 3/4 cup (193ml) plus 1 tbs all purpose flour
9. 2 cups (473ml) whole milk at room temperature
10. 5 tbs (74ml) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Instructions

1. Bring the water and 2 tbs of sugar to a boil in a small saucepan and allow it to dissolve together to make a syrup.
2. In a bowl, add the prunes and Armagnac, then pour over the syrup.
3. Stir gently and set aside to come to room temperature.-several hours is best
4. In a mixer with the whisk attachment, over low-medium speed, combine the eggs, sugar and salt,
5. and then gently mix in the flour, followed by the milk and finally the melted butter.
6. Cover the batter with cling wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour - overnight is better.
7. Preheat oven to 425F and butter an 8x2 inch (20x2.5cm) cake pan or gratin.and then fit a circle of parchment paper in the bottom, and butter that as well.
8. If I make it in a ceramic gratin, i do not use the paper, but rather butter and flour that as well.
9. Flour the interior and the sides and tap out excess.
10. Remove the batter from the fridge and stir it again to make sure it is mixed.
11. Pour the batter in the pan, drain the prunes and drop them over the batter
12. Put the pan on a middle rack in the oven and bake for 15 minutes at 425F before lowering the temperature to 350F.
13. Bake for another 30 minutes or a bit longer - the top should be a light golden brown and a knife inserted into the cake comes out clean
14. .Transfer pan to rack and allow it to cool to room temperature.before running a knife around the edge.
15. You can serve it from the pan, or you can unmold it on a piece of parchment on a plate, remove the parchment from the cake, and invert it onto a serving platter.
16. Serve immediately

Notes

1. I usually use finely ground almonds instead of flour for lining the pan.
2. I use a Thermapen and when the temperature is 160-170F or 71-77C) it is done.
3. Refrigerate leftover Far covered, and have it for breakfast.

By Daniel Boulud

Adapted from Cafe Boulud Cookbook

Adapted from Cafe Boulud Cookbook

Kitchen Detail https://lacuisineus.com/

This last recipe is my mash-up of the classic pot-de-crème recipe I learned from Mary Bond and a dessert that my husband adored at the now sadly closed restaurant, Racine, in London  – one of the lamentable results of posh neighborhoods being engulfed by wealthy absentee property holders He was so upset about its closing that he has vowed to search for the restaurant whereabouts of the chef Henry Harris. But let’s talk about happier subjects – prunes, Armagnac, and silky custard cream. If you follow my advice about storing some prunes in a jar of Armagnac, this is the perfect recipe to start with.  When I learned how to make a proper pot-de-crème, you beat the eggs, milk and cream with the paddle blade in the mixer so as not to create too much foam. Before ladling the mixture in tiny cups   (I use ramekins now) you got rid of any foam or bubbles using a skimmer or spoon. I pop any remaining bubbles before sliding the pan into the oven.   This recipe is super easy, but again the devil is in the details.  Originally pots-de-crème were served on individual trays or plates in curved lidded cups: each person got three – mocha, lemon, or vanilla were the usual flavors. 

Pots De Crème With Prunes

2019-12-23 22:58:54

Serves 6

A simple but unctuous dessert that can be made a day or two before a party.

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Ingredients

1. 1 cup (237ml) whole milk
2. 1 cup (237ml)heavy cream
3. 3/4 cup (178ml) caster sugar
4. 2 whole eggs
5. 2 egg yolks
6. 1 tsp or more vanilla extract or about 1/2 tsp French Vanilla Essence
7. 6 prunes soaked in Armagnac, each cut into small pieces (6-8) for the base of each ramekin or cup.

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 425F (218C)
2. Bring the milk and cream to a boil and then allow to cool slightly.
3. Mix the eggs, yolks and sugar with the paddle blade of mixer.
4. Add the hot milk and cream slowly with the paddle blade still turning slowly.- you don't want there to be a raft of foam.
5. Add the vanilla to taste and remove the foam with a skimmer.
6. In a roasting pan that can fit 6 3-4oz (89- 118ml) ramekins or cups, fill with water that would reach about 1/2 inch from the top of the ramekins.and allow it to come to a boil on top of the stove.
7. Place the filled ramekins into the simmering water of the roasting pan and slide into the oven.
8. After about 2-3 minutes turn down the oven to 400F. (204C)
9. Check with an instant read thermometer (I use a Thermapen for greatest accuracy) and when it reads 170F (77C) the little custards are done.
10. Timing should be be from 15-20 minnutes.
11. These custard creams should be wiggly and shiny on top.
12. Serve at room temperature or cold.

Notes

1. If you store the pots-de-crèmes in the fridge, cover each with cling wrap.
2. They store well for 3 days if kept this way.

By Mary Bond and Racine Restaurant, London

Kitchen Detail https://lacuisineus.com/

Nancy Pollard

After owning one of the best cooking stores in the US for 47 years, Nancy Pollard writes a blog about food in all its aspects – recipes, film, books, travel, superior sources and food related issues.