A Difference of Opinion
Apparently it is an acquired taste.
The Italian Insider daughter makes a type of American pancake called Silver Dollar, from a marvelous cookbook written by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison in 2002 titled A Real American Breakfast -another AOOP* book, unfortunately. My English grandson at age 10, has been trained by his British father to make and flip like a diner maestro the larger style American pancakes. I have never been able to flip a pancake, although I am still practicing creating the wave in Italian mantecatura.
On the other side is myself – I have very fond childhood memories of pfannkuchen, eaten with butter (not a lot, as I am sure it was rationed) and jam at a large square table in an ample kitchen in post-war Germany. You can try my version of them from this post. German pancakes are somewhat like crepes but thinner, more papery and delicate, somewhat akin to the Hungarian palacsinta, but with no soda water in the recipe.
But today I want to share a French version of this style of pancake, which can be made in several sizes. In the US, I used a a 9 1/2 inch carbon steel pan to make the large crepe. These crêpes differ from my beloved German pancakes in that they are a bit more lush in texture and flavor, a bit more spongy, as the melted butter and rum in the batter give them more flavor “oomph”. For Crêpes Suzette, traditionally one would use a smaller pan (around 7 inches across). The crepes are filled folded into quarters and then sauced with a syrupy combination of butter, caramelized sugar and orange zest, plus an orange-flavored liqueur – all flamed at the table. Lots of fun and drama. and they provide a light and sparkling end to a meal.
Equipment Notes
DeBuyer, which has a website and distribution center in the US, is an excellent source for carbon steel pans. They need to be seasoned like cast iron but, with their lighter weight and long offset handles, they are much easier to manipulate on the stove. Especially if you want to try your hand at flipping,
carbon steel is indestructible and has terrific heat conduction – meaning that the metal spreads the heat evenly and quickly. I have quite a collection and use them constantly at the stove. If you go the stainless steel route, purchase one with an aluminum or carbon steel layer so that you will get better heat conduction than you would if it were all stainless steel.
Since my crepe/pfannkuchen pans are in the fabled 109 boxes in Milan, I have been testing the next generation of nonstick pans available to me in Bologna. From reading the fine print on their labels, they are without the hideously toxic PFAs that we are burdened with from the previous generations of non-stick cookware, but who knows. My current favorites here are made by Risoli – an Italian cookware firm committed to low environmental impact design and manufacture. This one is solid aluminum, with a pretty impressive non-stick layer. Its detachable heat p-proof handle allows you to use the pan as a gratin in the oven. You do not want enameled cast iron for crepes as the enamel inhibits quick searing. . Another good choice would be a professional weight solid aluminum frypan. Next to copper, their heat conduction is fantastic. Mine originally came from Mauviel, but I now have purchased some from Agnelli.
Niggling Details
Recipe
Classic Dessert Crêpes
A rich version of the French u0022pancakeu0022 perfect for desserts…or breakfast.
Ingredients
- 375 grams (3 cups) all purpose flourn½ -1 teaspoon salt
- 75 grams (3/4 cup) powdered sugar
- 6 large eggs
- 90 grams (6 tablespoons)soft unsalted butter
- 1 litre (4 cups) whole milk
- 2-3 tablespoons rum
Instructions
- In a bowl, add the flour, salt and powdered sugar.nWhisk these dry ingredients together.nMelt the butter and keep it warm.nMix the eggs together thoroughly, either by hand or with a hand mixer – making sure that the whites are completely integrated with the yolks.nAdd the mik to the eggs and mix thoroughly.nMake a well in the center of the bowl of dry ingredients and pour half the liquid into the well, while mixing with a whisk or hand mixer.nAdd the rest of the egg and milk mixture and continue to mix until the ingredients form a smooth and liquid batter.nAdd the melted butter and then the rum, mixing thoroughly.nHeat your pan of choice and brush lightly with softened butter or cooking oil. Using a measuring cup or ladle, pour just enough batter to cover the base of the pan thinly – obviously the amount varies with the diameter of the base of your pan.nFlip the crêpe with a spatula after you see the pancake bubble up in spots – the other side should be done in less than a minute – remove and repeat the process.
Notes
- Crêpes can be sprinkled with a bit of granulated sugar to keep them from sticking to each other before serving.nHowever, if you are freezing them, place a sheet of parchment paper or wax paper between them before putting the stack in a freezer bag.nI didn't give the number of crêpes as it varies depending on the size of the pan but this recipe can be halved or even reduced by 2/3 if you want to make just a few crepes for two.
I’m an American girl who likes her protein for breakfast – at least eggs. Never got into pancakes. When I was 15 and went to Europe for the first time, we never had continental breakfasts and I was all over the meat and cheese they had.
Hello Diane,
My first encounter and breakfast surprise with was at 20 when I landed in Rotterdam and saw cold cuts, cheese and several types of bread.