Juicy Post: Zucchini Flower Power

Birds and Bees ABCs

Wondering about those boxes of zucchini blossoms, now beckoning beguilingly in farmers’ markets? I hope this post about zucchini blossom recipes makes readers yield to temptation and give them a chance.  Zucchini blossoms are so much more than salad decorations. First, they can be used effectively along with other greens.  Just tear the petals off, mix them into the salad, but they’re tender so please add the dressing at the last minute before serving.  If you are seduced by the ease of growing zucchini and similar squashes, the blossoms are an alternative to the bloated August logs you leave on your neighbor’s porch or in your compost pile.  Cut the blossoms off before they have a chance to become the monster jokes on late night TV. You may already know  that these plants have both male and female blossoms. Male squash blossoms are hairier and have a thin base where they attach to a long stem. Females have a thick bulge, which is the ovary, where the squash grows from the plant. You can wait until  a small squash appears and then pick the female blossom along with it. This blossom and tiny squash combination is delicious as part of a deep fried appetizer or sauteed as a side dish. There are actually quite a few amazing zucchini blossom recipes to enjoy.      

Nip It In The Bud

 The site Gardening Know How (which, as a recovering Black Thumb, I visit frequently) advises that morning is the best time for picking squash flowers. The male flowers appear first and should be picked before they become too hairy. Female blooms are considered the tastiest, but judge how many full grown squashes you ultimately want on your plants before harvesting. By squeezing the back of the bloom, it is easy to discern the flat end of the male flower from the more bulbous end of the female one. I have found that if you purchase squash blossoms, you should use them the day you buy them.  If they are wilted after a day or two in the fridge,  then use them in a  quesadilla, soup, or risotto. When picked from  a friend’s garden, I can keep them in paper towels in a flat  covered container in the fridge overnight or even a couple of days.  Male blossoms will last longer in the fridge than the females. You open the blossom to remove the pistil inside, along with the occasional deceased bug.  I brush them with a paper towel if cleaning is needed. To fill, either used a little coffee spoon or a plain 1/2 inch pastry tip with a pastry bag.  I prefer a 16 inch size bag, as that gives you plenty of room to twist the open end and create a grip. Once you have filled (usually less than a tablespoon is plenty) the blossom, twist the top petals together to create a seal. You can refrigerate for an hour before frying, but filling and frying at the same time is best. 

Fried, Steamed, And  Marinated

Even though I have found a few zucchini blossom recipes in French cookbooks (kind of fussy recipes with crabmeat or layered in sauce),  those I use most often are from Italian and Mexican recipe sources. One of the most sensational dishes I ever ate was a zucchini souffle with a  sublime sauce of zucchini blossoms and truffles at Ristorante Il Pinturrchio in Spello. I tried to recreate it (without truffle shavings) and failed miserably. Spello, famed for its flower festivals,  is on the way to Assisi and is worth a visit (wear climbing shoes, this is not the place to sport your heels). And when you need a meal break from this very curated town, this would be my restaurant choice.    For frying the blossoms, either filled or unfilled, this is the batter recipe I use most often. It is from Patricia Wells’ Trattoria cookbook, which was published in 1993.  She in turn credits the recipe to Cesare Benelli, the chef-owner of Al Covo in Venice.  I have sometimes added a bit of lemon zest or finely chopped fresh herbs to this pillowy batter.  In fact, you can used this batter for any fritto misto combination, seafood,  or finely sliced vegetables.  I have also stuffed the blossoms with ricotta and herbs or a piece of mozzarella with a basil leaf before dipping them into this batter and frying. I also salt the batter. In frying, I use my carbon steel wok and find that 16 inch tongs from Messermeister are great tools.  This length of the insulated handles on this size really is better for spatter insurance than shorter versions.     

Recipe

Deep Fried Zucchini and Zucchini Blossoms

This is a slightly fluffy batter which can be used for all sorts of vegetables and seafood fritti misti

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Ingredients

• Beer Batter
• 1/4 cup (60ml) water
• 1/4 cup light beer at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (70gr) pastry or Wondra flour (I use Tipo 00)
• 3 large egg whites
• 2 quarts safflower, or grape seed oil for frying
• 16 or more zucchini blossomes and
• 1lb (500gr) of sliced zucchini, or baby artichokes,nAdditional sea salt for final seasoning

Instructions

1. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the water and beer together.nSlowly whisk in flour until smooth and set aside for an hour; so that the flour has time to absorb the liquid.nPreheat the oven at the lowest temperature if you want to keep fried batches warm while finishing the rest.nWhisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry. They should look a bit creamy.nStir the batter and then fold in the egg whites.nThe batter should be fluffy but smooth.nAt this point, you can add some zest or finely chopped herbs if you want.nPour oil into a 6 quart saucepan or stockpot, or use a deep fryer.nI float a Thermoworks chef alarm thermometer probe; you need a thermometer so that you can maintain a 375F (190C) temperature.nDip your prepared ingredients, a few at a time into the batter, rolling them to even out how the batter coats each piece.nShake off excess and lower the pieces into the oil, a few at a time.nIt should take no more than two minutes to cook the vegetables, turning them until they are golden on all sides.nRemove with a wire skimmer, drain, and place on parchment or paper towels and season with sea salt.nBatches can be be kept in a warm oven (you may need to leave the door ajoar with spoon)nMaintain that 375F temperature for all batches, even if you have to wait for the oil to heat up again.n.

Notes

• You can substitute 1/2 cup left over pro secco or 1/2 cup soda or seltzer water for the beer and water combination

Details

Author: Patricia Wells

Adapted from: Trattoria

As much as I love fried squash blossoms, this Italian version of marinating them and then using them as a garnish for an antipasto platter or salad is quite easy and provides a delicate but sparkling flavor. You need to let them marinate filled for at least 20 minutes, but I have let them go a couple of hours.  This particular recipe I got from one of those Italian cooking magazines that appear at newstands and grocery stores and then they disappear.  This issue of Cucinare is from May, 2015 and I have never found the magazine again.  It is chock full of interesting recipes you never see on websites.      

Recipe

Marinated Zucchini Blossoms

very unusual, very easy, to garnish a salad or top a crostino that has an olive paste base

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Prep 30 min

Yield 16

Ingredients

• 16 zucchini blossoms
• 16 mozzarella bocconcini halves If your blossoms are small. – leave them whole if you have large blossoms
• 40ml (1/8 cup)best quality Extra Virgin Olive OIl
• 2 tsp balsamico condiment (I use Cavalli Nando)nsea salt and freshly ground pepper

Instructions

1. Wipe off the flowers with a paper towel, and pull apart the petals at the base to remove the pistil – try not to tear them, but it is not fatal if you do.nDrain your mozzarella pieces well on paper towels and allow them to dry for 10 minutes.nYou do not want the mozzarella to be too damp for this preparation.nPlace each piece of mozzarella inside each blossom and twist the end of the blossom to u0022sealu0022 the blossom.nPlace the blossoms in a single layer in any baking dish that will fit all of them.nCombine the olive oil and Aceto Balsamico in a small bowl and whisk together, adding the sea salt and pepper to taste.nDribble this dressing over the stuffed zucchini blossoms and turn each blossom over a couple of times so that the dressing coats all sides.nCover and allow to marinate at least 20 minutes in the refrigerator.

Notes

• You can garnish a a salad, or make them part of an antipasto platter or top crostini with them.

Details

Adapted from: Cucinare Magazine May, 2015

One of the most inspiring books you can read before you embark on a trip to a Farmers Market is the latest one from David Tanis, aptly titled Market Cooking.  Sometimes, I just go in to a market blind and then look up what he says about a particular fruit or vegetable. His recipes are always spot on in directions and results and they are in many cases unusual. I use his recipe for stuffing zucchini blossoms given here, when I do fried stuffed blossoms.  But in this one, they are lightly steamed in a buttery broth for a few minutes and the result is truly unctuous. If you can get sheeps milk ricotta, all the better.  Bellweather Farms makes an excellent one. I have also found a couple of other brands at Wegmans.  David Tanis writes a regular column for the New York Times Cooking Section that is worth checking.  He always has an interesting take on a dish (plus really good instructions).  I get questions from readers on what pans I use.  In this case it is the 11.5 inch frypan from Mauviel’s M’Cook series.   

Recipe

Steamed Squash Blossoms With Ricotta And Herbs

So simple, so unctuous, make it first course in the summer

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Ingredients

• 1 cup fresh ricotta, sheep's milk if possible
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan
• 1/2 tsp grated lemon zest
• 2 tbs finely chopped chives
• 1/2 tsp finely chopped thyme or lemon thyme
• Sea salt u0026 freshly ground peppernpinch of cayenne or Marash pepper
• 12 squash blossoms
• 3 tbs unsalted butter
• 1 cup Blond Chicken Broth (a paler broth than one done with roasted chicken)nchopped flat leaf parsley or gasil for garnish

Instructions

1. Mix the ricotta, Parmesan, lemon zest, chives, thyme, 1/2 tsp salt and some freshly ground pepper with the cayenne or Marash pepper and stir them toghether until thoroughly combined.nPull open the cleaned, and de pisteled blossoms and add just enough filling so that you can close them easily – usually less than a tablespoon.nBring the petals back around the filling and reshape the filled blossom, flattening it gently, just a bit.nMelt the butter in a wide skilletover medium heat and arrange the blossoms in one layer.nSprinkle the blossoms lightly with some additional salt.nAdd the broth, put on a lid and simmer gently for about 5 minutes – the blossoms should just be heated through.nLift the blossoms from the pan (I use a fish or line cook spatula) and arrange in a shallow wide soup or pasta bowl. Spoon some of the buttery broth over each and garnsih with parsley or basil.

Details

Author: David Tanis

Adapted from: Market Cooking