Travel Alert: Dorset Days with the UK Insider

Beyond London Town

Somewhere in my reading, there is a quote that goes something like this: There is Paris and then there is the rest of France. I feel that could also be said of London, a vast sprawling city with  both gritty and stately neighborhoods surrounding some of the finest examples of Western European architecture to be found – a miracle, considering the horrific London Blitz of WW II lasted over eight months. And towering above the London skyline is a gaggle of interesting skyscrapers with endearing names like “the Walkie Talkie” “the Gherkin” or “the Cheese Grater” and of course the “Shard” – more about the last one in a future post.  But if you are visiting London for more than a few days, it would be worth your vacation time to take a small side trip to another area of this “sceptered isle.”

Our Dorset Adventure

My UK Insider daughter, Anastasia Pollard suggested a three-day trip to Wareham in Dorset to get a bit of invigorating British sea air – much different from the languid air of Italian beaches. Wareham itself, which was a Roman fortification, is located inland between two rivers, delightfully  (and so British-ly) named Frome and Piddle. If you are traveling as a family, it is an excellent choice, as several options are easily available to you. It will take you a bit over two hours by train from London to reach Wareham. If you are without a car, the Uber app in Wareham is your new best friend. Should you feel comfortable driving on the wrong side of the road, it is a a two-and-a-half-hour trip.

If  you drive, and camping is your thing (I was the sole exception in my family of inveterate campers and hikers – Stony Man Mountain held no allure for me) the Wareham Forest Tourist Park  is a staggering wonderland for would-be campers. It offers beautifully maintained grounds with manicured fields, nicely preserved wooded areas, even beautiful floral plantings so that you can pitch a tent in the wilds or nestle into one of their  glamping options. My grandsons thought this was the best thing that could happen to them, having suffered through painful treks through several art museums. They played in the fields, had battles in the forest, swam in the pool. They ran to the on-site bakery for a freshly baked pain au chocolat in the morning – so different from my memory of summer camp breakfasts. A British take on the classic American S’mores (yes we do have a cuisine) was a hit. 

Not In A Tent

Since, as you have probably gathered, nothing can induce me or the RWM to enter a tent, we checked out two other options on our extended weekend stay. We spent two nights in a Bed & Breakfast – Spurwing  Guest House which had a charming garden, and where the hosts will fix an English style breakfast with options.  You can check out other possibilities similar to this one here. I did not realize it at the time, but there is a world famous rehabilitation center for primates in the neighborhood. We enjoyed our short trip to Dorset so much that this will be included in a return. 

We opted for a luxe hotel for one night, which was The Priory, an independent luxury hotel that has been crafted out of the remains of a tenth century Benedictine priory. You can have a room overlooking the Frome River, as they have converted the boathouse into lovely suites. They have a very ambitious restaurant, which we did not try, as our grandsons were not appropriately clothed and shod. That said, however, your room rate includes breakfast in a lovely dining area adjacent to their beautiful garden and patio. And it is nicely done with an emphasis on the British full breakfast and tea. Non-Italian coffee is also offered and fancy clothes are totally optional. 

Small History Bites

At the top of our grandsons’ list was the Tank Museum, which actually both their grandparents enjoyed since we were born during WW II and spent our childhoods in post-war Germany –  we are avid watchers of affiliated documentaries. The museum is highly commercialized, but to see the transformation of tanks from before WW I to today  – and to see examples of tanks being used today in the Russian invasion of Ukraine – shows the viewer that tank warfare is not obsolete. The video game area with tank-related  strategies of course had lines, and both boys played several times. 

On a more peaceful note, I was sorry not to have gone to the  Holmes Garden Center and the Carey’s Secret Garden – so both are on  my list along with the Monkey Rehabilitation Center. I think the British have a way with gardens that is unmatched. Also you can just enjoy the walks or boating by the two rivers or in one of the bays. A beach town day at Swanage, for example, makes a nice day trip. It, like Wareham, has charming streets, filled with shops and casual eating places. And if you are interested in the life of Lawrence of Arabia, he spent much of his time in this area, writing about his adventures and his prescient views on the Middle East. He is buried at Moreton. 

Of course there are also the spooky ruins of  Corfe Castle, where the teenage King Edward was stabbed to death, most likely  under the orders of his stepmother. The castle is the setting for some important murders, imprisonments, and of course was a focus of the Civil War between the Cavaliers and the Roundheads. British history makes your head spin!

With an age range of ten  to past eighty, we found that dining and relaxing by the river’s edge was best served by the pub   The Old Granary. The food is really good, there is plenty of room to run around and not amok at this quayside restaurant. The views are lovely and peaceful. It’s walkable from just about every  tourist point in Wareham. Relaxation and the enjoyment of local offerings makes this a great side trip to your stay in London.