Le Marche in Italy has a changing landscape of mountains, hills and sea forming a quilt of green, yellow, gold and blue, with many destinations far from the beaten path.
With its year-round population at around thirty, this humble hamlet never developed into a larger community like nearby Force, Castignano or Montedinove. There are no
It was the childhood home of my father-in-law, and my husband’s family still holds onto the four-floor property that spans from a cellar and well at its deepest point to the upper portion of the town with a balcony looking towards Monte Ascensione and the green and blonde sea of rolling countryside and cultivated fields. It was where I got married, and during the pandemic the whole family was thankful to have this place to vacation after lockdowns in Bologna, Rome and Ascoli. We were not the only ones who rediscovered this forgotten corner of Le Marche. Castel di Croce was pretty much abandoned year round until Covid came along. With not many options, considering the travel restrictions in place, magically the former homes of grandfathers and grandmothers were populated in August of 2020 and 2021 with new generations as an inexpensive holiday far from the crowds.
Summer at Castel di Croce tastes like peperonata and pomodori in porchetta, halved tomatoes slowly cooked in a pan with olive oil and rosemary, or
Although Castel di Croce itself doesn’t have any stores or restaurants, at the neighboring town of Force excellent produce can be found at Grazioli’s fruit and vegetable shop, and the local bakery has heavenly maritozzi for breakfast and a treccia bread made with olive oil that always seems to disappear once we bring it home. To beef up our meals, we might pick up some porchetta, thin slices of juicy roast pork, or ciauscolo, a soft salami that spreads like butter on bread, or head on over to Matilde’s butcher shop in Comunanza and
The biggest event at Castel di Croce is the celebration of Beata Assunta Pallotta, a native nun who became a missionary in China and is currently on her way to sainthood. On the first Sunday after August 15 there is a procession around town with a statue of Pallotta and the public water fountain magically pours out red wine, which is served with cantuccini. Otherwise life is pretty quiet, with interruptions of children playing hide and seek or tractors on their way from one field to the next.
You can admire Renaissance polyptychs and frescoes by artists like Carlo Crivelli in Montefiore
Day trips go hand in hand with eating out, and the territory offers everything from simple local fare to restaurants with adventurous menus. We have enjoyed the mountain-influenced cuisine at Le Logge in Smerillo with salumi, fried quail eggs and pancetta, pastas served with summer truffles and grilled lamb. For a more innovative menu, you can’t go wrong with I Piceni in Ortezzano, a small town closer to the coast with pretty brick Baroque architecture and stone medieval buildings. Sit outside in the covered terrace with views of the surrounding countryside and dine on Giampiero
Juggling nuance between Italian and English, Tatiana lights up her five-burner kitchen top with nostalgia for American food, Bologna-inspired fare and cross-cultural inventions. She and her husband endlessly debate on cooking with or without a recipe. Their son just hopes that dinner will either be plain or have chocolate in it.
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Sounds lovely. Are there places to stay?
Yes, in the area you might look at Casa Montalto, Casa Trifoglio, La Canosa, La Ramuse or Locanda I Piceni. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to help!
18 years ago my family took a wonderful trip to Italy, and we spent several days in the Marches at an amazing Agrotourismo in Castel St Angelo, before heading to Venice. Great views, food, wine and generous hosts. Go!
Thanks Nancy for the heads up! I haven't been to Castelsantangelo sul nera yet, but now it's marked on my map for next year. Right in the middle of Sibillini National Park! Do you happen to remember the name of the agriturismo where you stayed?