Years ago, I used to go to ArrowLive Poultry on H Street in Washington DC with my four-year-old daughter in tow. She loved racing around the yard with the chickens and was not emotionally scarred by holding the warm package in her lap on our way home. She still eats chicken in Italy. The chickens from Arrow (and roosters for coq au vin) were delicious, and also were not huge like the ones we find now even from organic growers. I don’t remember back in 1980 whether the birds were pronounced organic or not, but they certainly lacked the DayGlo yellow fat from dyed feed, advertised now as a selling point by a major poultry producer in the US . As delicious as these chickens were, they didn’t approach the glory of the Bleu de Bresse — aka The Dream Chicken” pictured here. In the end, ArrowLive was shut down so that we could be spared from having really good local chickens, turkeys and ducks. We were reduced to purchasing corporate poultry, about which you are federally prohibited from documenting the process of their production.
We even had a poultry vendor at the Old Town Farmers’ Market. The chickens were in a glass case
I don’t mean to imitate the myth of the cranky philosopher Diogenes and his lamp, but I am looking for an honest chicken. How do you combat the mega poultry prison farms that are the US standard? Documentaries such as Food Inc and books by Eric Schlosser and Michael Pollan have all chronicled the horrific and financially punishing leased poultry operations run by Perdue and Tyson, to name just two. An interesting footnote to this is the series of “documentaries” produced by Tyson to counteract the negative publicity received from such books and films. Still as consumers, with an unparalleled access to information, some of us can make tastier choices and also help turn the wheel of the domestic poultry rebellion.
Pursuing my curiosity about the certification stamp from Certified Humane , I found it on chickens from a new independent poultry cooperative at MOMs, which had a savvily designedof Farmer Focus. Certified Humane has very detailed and rigorous instructions for poultry farming and is endorsed by the ASCPA. It is worth viewing their programs and video. It may change your purchasing habits.
The chickens are better than what I had been purchasing (except for the Poulet Rouge ones that I got at Georgetown Butcher). Farmer Focus is
All the farmers in SVO/Farmer Focus own their flocks and have to meet the standards of third parties to ensure their chickens are USDA Organic, Non-GMO Project Verified, Certified Humane and Global Animal Partnership certified. When you next pick up a package of their chickens, check the fine print under the Meet Your Farmer graphic on the label, and find out who produced your chicken dinner. In my case, I have had buffalo wings and spatchcocked chicken(not more than 3 1/2 lbs) from Tyler Whetzel’s farm in Mathias, West Virginia and Nash Hill Farm in Fulks Run, Virginia. I may not have set my lamp down yet, but even the Diogenes in me is happy.
After owning one of the best cooking stores in the US for 47 years, Nancy Pollard writes a blog about food in all its aspects – recipes, film, books, travel, superior sources and food related issues.
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