Our methodology has not evolved much from those pre-TripAdvisor days. How otherwise would we have ended up at Il Tiglio, 50 minutes from Ascoli Piceno and 2 hours from Spoleto. Nestled in the Monti Sibillini, part of the Apennine Mountains between Le Marche and Umbria, it’s hardly a place you come across by chance. And its chef is just as unique.
At nearly 50, Enrico Mazzaroni has already been reborn three times as a restaurateur. A native of the mountainous area outside of Ascoli, he grew up helping out at his parents’ agriturismo Il Tiglio in the secluded village Isola San Biagio. After ending a career in academia at the University of Bologna in 1994, Mazzaroni returned to the family kitchen, which he took over in 2004 from his mother and aunt. He brought to it his experience with world-renowned Japanese chef Seiji Yamamoto and at the French restaurant Les Ambassadeurs, not to mention his own research into classics and contemporaries from Pellegrino Artusi to Ferran Adrià. Mazzaroni rescripted the traditional cuisine of Il Tiglio with a challenging menu applying techniques of molecular gastronomy to the products of Monti Sibillini, like mushrooms, potatoes, lentils, goat cheese, lemon balm, even pine trees. A courageous choice for an eatery in a village of around fifty people slapped on the side of a hard to get to
Mazzaroni’s restaurant garnered attention of all the important Italian food media, and on this wave of positive reception Il Tiglio was fully renovated in 2016. It was destroyed six months later with the earthquakes that struck central Italy in 2016, crushing with it an inventory of 500 wines and years of labor and love.
In 2017, with the support of a local businessman, Mazzaroni and Il Tiglio moved to the seaside town of Porto Recanati, becoming Il Tiglio in Vita. With a change of territory comes a change of ingredients, and so Mazzaroni learned the language of seafood and fish as he had that of barnyard animals and mountain meadow greens. Despite being well-received and certainly in an easier to reach location, less than two years later Il Tiglio returned to Isola San Biagio on February 14, 2019.
On offer are two tasting menus or you can choose a la carte from a list of five ingredients, each one used as a theme of a three-course meal. The dance starts with imaginative amuse-bouches like fried pistachios wrapped in lard, tartlets with pureed roasted tomatoes, warm little breads served with whipped butter sprinkled with herbs. Drawing inspiration from nature and tradition, the other courses are just as inventive with creations like a savory bombolone with caviar, eggless mayonaise and a filling of veal tartare or a salty tiramisù with an egg cooked slowly at a low temperature and carrots and portabello mushrooms substituing the savoiardi and coffee, veal diaphragm with artichokes and katsuobushi.
The primi courses are witty takes on standard fare like gnocchi senza patate (gnocchi without potatoes) or la carbonara senza uovo (carbonara without eggs). Some
Children are welcome and if they’re not ready for culinary experimentation, seven-year-old Gregorio reports that the tagliatelle with ragù is out of this world.
Maybe you can’t take the boy out of the mountain.
Juggling nuance between Italian and English, Tatiana lights up her five-burner kitchen top with nostalgia for American food, Bologna-inspired fare and cross-cultural inventions. She and her husband endlessly debate on cooking with or without a recipe. Their son just hopes that dinner will either be plain or have chocolate in it.
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