Like his search for the best bagels and lox or the perfect pastrami sandwich, no distance is too great or shipping
In the meantime, much has been made of Dario Cecchini and his Macelleria in Panzano, Tuscany, first in Bill Buford’s book “Heat” — a well written and somewhat fawning account of his adventures in Mario Batali’s restaurant and later his stage in Dario’s butcher shop. In 2020, the Netflix Series, Chef’s Table, featured him and his enterprises. With its rich orchestral music and beautiful cinematography, this episode certainly made La Maccelleria Cecchini a Mecca for beef acolytes. And I certainly appreciate his passionate philosophy that none of what a cow has to offer in its butchery should be wasted. At one time at the Eastern Market in DC, we had a wonderful butcher, Charlie Fincham, who was very much of the same school as Dario Cecchini. We could purchase tripe and veal liver or kidneys. And he had the most delicious hamburger I have ever eaten – it included beef heart. It’s hard to forget that Charlie’s burger was 39 cents a pound when we discovered it.
All of which should entice you to include a dinner at one of many restaurants throughout Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, which feature this acclaimed specialty. While it is easy to be seduced by the film and press accolades of Cecchini, I think a more intimate experience, with fewer theatrics and certainly a lower bill – can be had in a restaurant such as Nonno Poldo in Roncobilaccio. It’s an easy drive between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany. If you are fluent enough in Italian (and I am not) you can detect distinct Bolognese and Florentine accents in the local population in this area that was highly contested between the feudal fiefdoms of Bologna and Florence.
The menu includes homemade filled pastas and their version of pappardelle with a wild boar ragù –
Although their site suggests using the Casello or Badia exits from A1, my son in law has maintained a well worn path to Nonno Poldo and advises the following route. If you take the A1 coming from Bologna to Florence, you will see a fork in the road: the new right lane will take you directly to Florence and the older left lane (indicated by the the word Panoramica) will take you by an exit marked Roncobilaccio. This exit also goes through a gas station. Follow the signs to Roncobilaccio, and the restaurant is on the left side of the road – it’s an uphill driveway with the aforementioned sign. On the right side of the road is a small parking area. Happiness awaits.
After owning one of the best cooking stores in the US for 47 years, Nancy Pollard writes a blog about food in all its aspects – recipes, film, books, travel, superior sources and food related issues.
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Such an intrepid move! I am super impressed that you've gone and done it, and jealous too. Rounds of applause and hats off! Please keep up your informative and delightful newsletter missives.. I want to travel your paths.
Hello Pat,
We are still processing the whole move! Stay tuned! And thank you for the lovely note.