UK Insider: Feasts For The Eyes

Reunion

One of the reasons we made a permanent journey across  the pond is that both daughters live on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. While we have made our base in Bologna, where our Italy Insider has made her home, we are making extended stays in London, where I am teaching my English grandson how to make a really good chocolate chip cookie and my daughter, who is a portrait painter, introduces us to the wealth of art that is in and around London. Dining out is also on the table. 

I am sure many who visit London have been to the National Portrait Gallery and of course the Victoria And Albert Museum or even the Tate Modern (which currently has a magnificent exhibition of  the Blue Rider Expressionist works by Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc, Marianne von Werefkin and others). But I have two other suggestions for you with a surprise-to-us restaurant as a reward for broadening your cultural horizons.

A Southern Jewel

The first is actually in South London, which is where my daughter lives. The Dulwich Picture Gallery is in fact the oldest purpose-built public art gallery in the United Kingdom. It began with a gift from a highly successful  Elizabethan theater actor, Edward Alleyn, in the 16th century, who purchased the Dulwich Manor, turned it into a school and endowed it with a collection of portraits of English royalty. The buildings that you go through today and the base of the collection were developed in the early 19th century. The noted architect Sir John Soane created an innovative design that showcases the collection with gorgeous skylights, which illuminate the paintings with natural light. His cutting-edge use of domed skylights to best display paintings  has inspired modern gallery design globally.

A Home For Painters

The Museum opened  to the public in 1817, and for the next two centuries numerous art students studied and copied paintings from this remarkable collection – including  James Mallord, William Turner, and later Vincent Van Gogh. It is intriguing that both used color explosively in their works.  Several paintings have been stolen (and then found) from the Dulwich, including a portrait by Rembrandt, which has maintained the world record of being stolen from the Dulwich four times.

But just to give you an idea of the breadth of this amazing small collection, it includes three Rembrandts in its Dutch collection, seven from Gainsborough in its English collection, ten paintings by Reubens in its Flemish collection, six by Poussin in its French collection, and four paintings by Carracci in its Italian collection. The Dulwich also mounts very interesting temporary exhibits, from the Yoshida  family of Japanese printmakers who crossed the border between tradition and modern experimentation, to  women artists of the Impressionist movement. A nice café and lovely lawn with plenty of seating and run-around areas,  make a relaxed and family friendly ending for a manageable visit to this small jewel of an art museum. 

A Grand On The Strand

Anastasia also informed us that we had to visit the  Courtauld Collection at Somerset House in central London. Public transportation to Somerset House is easy, and the Strand is now a pedestrian street with public seating for weary travelers. Somerset House itself is a magnificent Georgian structure, its courtyard made friendly by the waterworks with frequent music and dance collaborations. This collection has stellar examples of Medieval Art, silver work, and a breathtaking collection of Impressionist and Post Impressionist paintings and sculpture. Not only does it have one of Manet’s versions of Dejeuner Sur L’herbe but also perhaps one of his most photographed paintings – The Bar At The Folies Bergère. You will be stunned at your discoveries in this masterpiece, from the “I cannot wait until my shift is over” look of the woman behind the counter to the trapeze artist in the upper left  corner or the reflection of the mysterious patron on the right. 

You will also find Vincent Van Gogh’s self-portrait with his bandaged ear. The story behind this painting needs no introduction – no matter how tortured his mind was, his use of color is still almost incandescent. And still another that I remember from  looking at pictures in history books at home and at school is Lucas Cranach the Elder’s portrait of Adam and Eve. It’s always difficult to describe what is so compelling about seeing these portraits “in the flesh.” 

A Restaurant For Family Repasts

The RWM feels strongly that any strenuous cultural activity should always end in a nice meal with a glass or two of wine. I must say this view meets with no objections from any other family members. After an intense scrolling session on his phone, he located a restaurant just around the corner from Somerset House called The Delaunay – a part of the Wolseley Hotel Group.  I had my doubts after experiencing other expensive hotel reinterpretations of time-honored watering holes – the most infamous being served an Egg Benedict (one small poached egg with a dab of ham and sauce on one half of an English muffin –  I kid you not) at an extortionate price accompanied by rude waiters in The Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel in New York City. No such worries at The Delaunay. Its MittelEuropa design and the highly professional and pleasant staff make you feel special indeed. While there is a nod to Vienna with sausages, schnitzel, Sacher Torte and strudel, their menu offers a nice range of first courses and mains that are simple and well executed. Lovely meals for children are included (and no it is not mac and cheese) as well as an outstanding banana split.   We liked it so much, we went back a second time.  You will feel well rewarded for all your cultural endeavors.