Trying Times with Tacos
There is a lot of loose talk about tacos in Bologna. As a bona fide American expat without an ounce of south-of-the-border blood in my veins, I feel I can still help out the local taco scene. It has become the most requested meal in my family. I should also confess that on my very short list of things I miss about my hometown is Taqueria El Poblano in Del Ray, along with their should-be-world-famous margaritas.
What’s available here in the taco shell department is the El Paso brand, which is, not surprisingly but sadly, owned by General Mills, and Santa Maria, a Finnish family-owned company headquartered in Sweden. After a serious degustazione comparativa, I could discern very little difference between the two. Both are serviceable placeholders, 
but somewhat lifeless compared to the tortillas I used to get at MOM’s from Ula, or the ones you can make at home. The El Paso tortillas—both flour and corn—are decidedly sweeter, and the soft ones are a bit gummy compared to the Santa Maria versions. Just another sign that this simple griddle bread is worth making at home; it really doesn’t take much effort.
I used to make my own tortillas, both corn and wheat, back in Alexandria. And I agree with Alexandra Stafford: once you start making them yourself, there’s no going back, though I’ll admit the corn dough is a bit fiddly to get right at first. I’m sharing two videos from her engaging website, whose recipes I use often. For the flour version, I skip the baking powder and use lard instead of butter. I also weigh out my dough: about 50 grams per ball for a 7-inch wheat tortilla, and 70 grams for the larger ones I use for fajitas and quesadillas. Back home I used pork lard; here in Bologna, I will experiment with strutto. I broke my tortilla press in Alexandria during Covid and switched to a Lodge cast-iron frying pan instead—it worked beautifully. But I am looking to buy the Una Casa Tortilla Press here.
The other essential piece for a joyous taco party is pork carnitas. Interestingly, it’s a dish that evolved from something the Spanish invaders brought with them. Contrary to our reputation for bacon, ham, and pork barbecue, pigs are not native to the Americas—Columbus brought them to the West Indies, and the Spanish carried them onward to Mexico and South America. Some records even suggest the antecedent of carnitas was cooked as a victory meal by the Spanish after their defeat of the Aztecs in 1521. Apparently, before the Spanish arrived, indigenous cooks didn’t cook meat in fat. I read that Michoacán, in western Mexico, is famous for its carnitas tradition.
I’ve never made it to Michoacán for carnitas, but I’ve eaten plenty of variations around Washington, DC, over the years. From those experiences, I’ve developed the following version. Some places use Coca-Cola in the braise; I prefer a dark beer. I’ve tried a pale one too, and the color of the pork comes out a bit lighter. The other non-negotiable ingredient is fragrant bay leaves. If you can grow nothing else on your balcony, try your luck with a potted bay bush—the aroma of fresh bay is worlds apart from the dried leaves you find at the grocery store.
Recipe
Pork Carnitas - KD Style
This recipe makes a lot - enough for two meals for a table of 6. It freezes beautifully and is full of flavor without excessive fat, and the meat ends up being finely shredded in the process
Ingredients
- 4.5 lbs pork shoulder or neck (confusingly called "pork butt" in the US) — you want a fatty, tough cut; pork shanks work as a second choice
- 1½ cups roughly cut white or sweet red onion, like Tropea
- 1–2 oranges, cut into quarters
- 1 lime, cut into quarters
- 1–2 dried and soaked chili peppers of your choice (I like poblano, but in a pinch I've used finely chopped pickled jalapeños)
- 2 cloves garlic
- 3–5 bay leaves
- 1 heaping teaspoon cumin seed or to taste
- 1 heaping teaspoon oregano
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- At least 1 cup bacon grease or lard
- 1 small bottle of beer, dark preferred (can be non-alcoholic)
- Chicken stock or water, as needed
Instructions
- Cut the pork into 3-inch cubes and place in a Dutch oven or French-style rondeau.
- Melt the fat and bring it to a low simmer before adding the meat, then add the meat to fry quickly in the fat - about 10 minutes.
- Add all the remaining ingredients, plus just enough stock or water to cover the meat, if needed.
- Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer.
- Once simmering, cover and either transfer to the oven or leave over low heat. I prefer the stovetop for this dish, since it's easier to control the heat for braising and caramelizing.
- Remove the orange, lime, and bay leaves. The onion will have dissolved into the meat mixture.
- Cook until the liquid has reduced to a small amount of syrup and the meat is falling apart and nicely browned. If you want an even crispier texture, spread it on a sheet pan and run it under the broiler — I prefer to leave it as is.
Notes
- I have occasionally simply combined all the ingredients in a pan (melted lard, liquids, etc.) and simply allowed them all to cook down. This method creates shredded meat with a softer texture, a bit less crispy.
Serve in small, crisp corn taco shells with your favorite toppings, or fold it into larger flour tortillas. I guarantee that this is a real Happy Meal, no matter where you are.
I had to learn to make Mexican food when I moved from Austin: tacos, enchiladas, tamales. The homemade tortillas are the best. I will also look to purchase the tortilla press. A good source of chilis is also important. I like Rancho Gordo.
Ciaody Susan!
Yes on the tortilla press. The frypan was good during quarantine but I want to get a press here. I had forgotten about Rancho Gordo, thanks for reminding me!
I SO miss TP and all the wonderful folks who work there. We’ve known the owner since his Sutton Place (New Mexico Avenue) days!